China, Day 4: Pingyao
The Great City Walls of Pingyao.
I arrived in the small, dusty town of Pingyao around 10:00 am this morning and wearily and happily stepped off the toasty train. Thus began one of the most interesting days of my trip, if not my life.
Pingyao's bustling main street.
I immediately went straight to the ticket counter to purchase a ticket for the evening's overnight train to Xi'an. Unfortunately, all the tickets were completely sold out, as I had dreaded. As I pondered my next move, a wiry Chinese boy approached me and told me he had tickets. I was immediately suspicious, but went outside with him to check it out. Sure enough, out of his pocket he pulled four tickets for that night's train. Sensing my suspicions about the legitimacy of the tickets, he introduced me to a woman who owned a hotel in Pingyao.
Some new pals on the dusty side streets.
The woman's English was exceptional, and her demeanor implied honesty, so I bought the ticket. Unfortunately, I had forgotten to visit an ATM before leaving Beijing, and all I had on me was 111 RMB (equal to about $13 US). The ticket price was only 89 RMB, but he wanted an extra 30 for "commission." I showed him the contents of my money belt and begged him to take 100 RMB. After much persuasion from the hotel owner, the boy finally accepted my offer, and I had a ticket on the evening's train! I then checked my bag into a storage room that the boy suggested for 5 RMB, graciously accepted a Pingyao map that the storage lady offered me, and finally set out to discover the tiny town...with only 6 RMB ($0.72), half a bottle of water, and some pieces of bread and fruit to get me through the day.
This sad cow was moo'ing up a storm in its courtyard.
The air in Pingyao was of the most extremely horrible quality (thanks to local coal mines), and my throat immediately closed up and I felt like I was in the midst of a forest fire. However, this town proved to be truly amazing. It is incredibly small, especially by China's standards, with only about 30,000 people within the city walls. It was built over a thousand years ago during the Ming dynasty, and most of the homes and all of the city wall are still intact.
An alleyway leading to the residences.
I wandered through the main streets and soon found myself in the desolate side residential streets, which was the highlight of the whole city. However, by around 2:00 pm, I was exhausted, as I had run out of water and food and knew my train was not set to leave Pingyao until 9:30 pm. I tried to rest my legs in a restaurant, but could not even afford the cheapest item on the menu. On my second try, the waitress informed me that a table of Chinese businessmen wanted the pleasure of my company at their table. I immediately joined them, and they ordered tons of food and drink and I happily filled my belly! We then walked around the streets, and they bought me presents from the vendors. I began to feel a little bit weird about the whole situation (particularly after one of the men grabbed my derriere during a picture with a monkey...), so I kindly said goodbye and ventured back into the side streets.
One courtyard's shared bathroom...
I found a lovely, empty lane and began to write in my journal. Soon, about a half-dozen locals surrounded me, curiously staring at this blonde "Meiguo" (American) jotting away in English writing. I smiled and said "Ni Hao," and the next thing I knew I was being guided through the homes by an elderly man. He proudly showed me the sturdiness of the architecture of these old homes, as well as the drainage system that his forefathers cleverly devised. It was a very surreal experience for me. I finally said goodbye, and within minutes ran into my hotel owner friend. Knowing how poor I was that day (I was now down to only 4 RMB after buying a bottle of water), she invited me into her hotel for all the tea and rest I could imagine.
An entrance to an ancient home.
I finally bid my new friends adieu, wandered through the town a bit more, and then made my way back to the "luggage storage" to retrieve my bag. The girl informed me that I owed 10 RMB...WHAT??!! I asked her what the previous 5 RMB was for, and she said the map. I was angry, and showed them my precious few RMB, explaining that I did not have the money. I was soon surrounded by about eight Chinese in this dark room, but I stood my ground. However, they refused to let me take my bag. Finally, I told them I wanted to call Mrs. Hotel Lady, and within seconds they told me to take my bag and leave. She must have some serious authority in Pingyao, and I am so happy I had her card.
Dilapidated and long-deserted storefronts.
I finally arrived at the station, took a hippy bath in the bathroom sink, and boarded my train at 9:30 pm. I was pleasantly surprised to find my entire carriage filled with foreigners...no blood-spitting experiences to be had this evening! I met a few teachers my age who are living in Xi'an, had some nice, much-needed English chats, and finally passed out around 11:00 pm. While today did have its trying points, it was one of the most amazing experiences of my life.
Pingyao's bustling main street.
I immediately went straight to the ticket counter to purchase a ticket for the evening's overnight train to Xi'an. Unfortunately, all the tickets were completely sold out, as I had dreaded. As I pondered my next move, a wiry Chinese boy approached me and told me he had tickets. I was immediately suspicious, but went outside with him to check it out. Sure enough, out of his pocket he pulled four tickets for that night's train. Sensing my suspicions about the legitimacy of the tickets, he introduced me to a woman who owned a hotel in Pingyao.
Some new pals on the dusty side streets.
The woman's English was exceptional, and her demeanor implied honesty, so I bought the ticket. Unfortunately, I had forgotten to visit an ATM before leaving Beijing, and all I had on me was 111 RMB (equal to about $13 US). The ticket price was only 89 RMB, but he wanted an extra 30 for "commission." I showed him the contents of my money belt and begged him to take 100 RMB. After much persuasion from the hotel owner, the boy finally accepted my offer, and I had a ticket on the evening's train! I then checked my bag into a storage room that the boy suggested for 5 RMB, graciously accepted a Pingyao map that the storage lady offered me, and finally set out to discover the tiny town...with only 6 RMB ($0.72), half a bottle of water, and some pieces of bread and fruit to get me through the day.
This sad cow was moo'ing up a storm in its courtyard.
The air in Pingyao was of the most extremely horrible quality (thanks to local coal mines), and my throat immediately closed up and I felt like I was in the midst of a forest fire. However, this town proved to be truly amazing. It is incredibly small, especially by China's standards, with only about 30,000 people within the city walls. It was built over a thousand years ago during the Ming dynasty, and most of the homes and all of the city wall are still intact.
An alleyway leading to the residences.
I wandered through the main streets and soon found myself in the desolate side residential streets, which was the highlight of the whole city. However, by around 2:00 pm, I was exhausted, as I had run out of water and food and knew my train was not set to leave Pingyao until 9:30 pm. I tried to rest my legs in a restaurant, but could not even afford the cheapest item on the menu. On my second try, the waitress informed me that a table of Chinese businessmen wanted the pleasure of my company at their table. I immediately joined them, and they ordered tons of food and drink and I happily filled my belly! We then walked around the streets, and they bought me presents from the vendors. I began to feel a little bit weird about the whole situation (particularly after one of the men grabbed my derriere during a picture with a monkey...), so I kindly said goodbye and ventured back into the side streets.
One courtyard's shared bathroom...
I found a lovely, empty lane and began to write in my journal. Soon, about a half-dozen locals surrounded me, curiously staring at this blonde "Meiguo" (American) jotting away in English writing. I smiled and said "Ni Hao," and the next thing I knew I was being guided through the homes by an elderly man. He proudly showed me the sturdiness of the architecture of these old homes, as well as the drainage system that his forefathers cleverly devised. It was a very surreal experience for me. I finally said goodbye, and within minutes ran into my hotel owner friend. Knowing how poor I was that day (I was now down to only 4 RMB after buying a bottle of water), she invited me into her hotel for all the tea and rest I could imagine.
An entrance to an ancient home.
I finally bid my new friends adieu, wandered through the town a bit more, and then made my way back to the "luggage storage" to retrieve my bag. The girl informed me that I owed 10 RMB...WHAT??!! I asked her what the previous 5 RMB was for, and she said the map. I was angry, and showed them my precious few RMB, explaining that I did not have the money. I was soon surrounded by about eight Chinese in this dark room, but I stood my ground. However, they refused to let me take my bag. Finally, I told them I wanted to call Mrs. Hotel Lady, and within seconds they told me to take my bag and leave. She must have some serious authority in Pingyao, and I am so happy I had her card.
Dilapidated and long-deserted storefronts.
I finally arrived at the station, took a hippy bath in the bathroom sink, and boarded my train at 9:30 pm. I was pleasantly surprised to find my entire carriage filled with foreigners...no blood-spitting experiences to be had this evening! I met a few teachers my age who are living in Xi'an, had some nice, much-needed English chats, and finally passed out around 11:00 pm. While today did have its trying points, it was one of the most amazing experiences of my life.
posted by Tiffany Joiner @ 9:00 AM
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