Sunday, June 12, 2005

DMZ

Friday night was a very low-key evening at home, seeing as I had to be up and out of my apartment Saturday morning by 6:00 am. Somehow, I managed to do it, even meeting my friends Lindsay and Nicole on the subway around 6:15 am. Why in the world was I up so early on a Saturday morning, you ask? I was headed to an interactive history lesson...a crash course in the Korean War at the infamous DMZ.


The unspoilt land of the DMZ. Posted by Hello

We met our tour group, which consisted of numerous teachers like myself, as well as some quite obnoxious American tourists, at the USO. We boarded the bus and began the ninety-minute trek out of the city and into the less-populated area up north. We finally arrived at Camp Bonifas for a quick briefing. Before we had a chance to let the plethora of war-related information sink in, we were herded onto the bus destined for the DMZ.


Just beyond the concrete line on the ground lies North Korea.
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The DMZ (Demilitarization Zone) is basically the stretch of land running along the border between North and South Korea. Since the no-fire agreement back in the 1950s, this parcel of land has gone completely untouched by humans. It is absolutely gorgeous, and is a remarkable sanctuary for many types of animals and plants that can be found nowhere else in this over-developed country. I was quite impressed to see birds other than pigeons.


Mr. ROK soldier guarding the back door to North Korea.
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One part of the DMZ is the JSA and the Military Armistice Commission...whatever that mumbo-jumbo means. We entered a massive granite building that was built for reunions between families separated by the country border. Unfortunately, this building has not served its intended purpose, thanks to Mr. Kim Jong Il. Through the back doors of this building was the higlight of the trip. A row of very small, unassuming squat buildings were lined up side-by-side, and beyond these rooms was another massive granite structure much resembling the Reunion Building. Running parrallel between the two matching structures and completely intersecting the pint-size buildings was a hefty strip of cement, measuring about a foot wide and a few inches high. This, my friends, was the famous border between North and South Korea.


The country border...NK on the left, SK on the right.
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We had strict rules not to point in the direction of the North Korean buildings (which is like telling you not to look at a car crash) and were allowed to snap all the photos we wanted. We then entered one of the South's little buildings where huge meetings take place...I crossed the room and was technically inside North Korea! I felt quite liberated, to tell the truth.


The Bridge of No Return.
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After the JSA area we rode by Checkpoint 3, which was the sight of the gruesome 1976 axe murder of several American GIs by North Korean soldiers. We then headed past the "Bridge of No Return," the only bridge connecting the two Koreas. Our next destination was lunch at the Panmunjon Cafeteria before viewing North Korea's Propaganda Village from the Dora observatory.


There's something about men in uniform...
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The story behind Propaganda Village is quite amusing. It is a little town built up with lovely apartments, homes and streets, overshadowed by a massive 600 pound North Korean flag, the world's largest. Here's the catch: nobody lives here. The lights are turned on at night and shadows are painted in the windows to give the appearance that it is a thriving community. Until just recently, large loudspeakers would blast Anti-South/Pro-North announcements towards South Korea. The whole point is to show South Korea and the rest of the world what a prospering country the North is...pretty amusing concept considering the country's GDP per capita is $1,400.


Propaganda Village.
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After checking out Propaganda Village (as well as South Korea's competing "Freedom Village," which, might I add, pays its inhabitants $62,000 a year to live there!) through the eyes of our telescopes, we headed to our final stop: the Third Tunnel. Here, we donned hard hats and descended into the depths of the earth through one of the many tunnels built by North Korea to launch surprise attacks on the south.


World's Most Dangerous Golf Course, complete with mine field hazards!
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We finally made it to the end only to turn right back around for a butt-blasting climb back out of the tunnel. We boarded our bus and headed back to Seoul. After climbing off our bus, I made a quick trip to the foreign market in Itaewon (for none other than my peanut butter addicition) before eventually meeting back up with Lindsay and Nicole on a cafe roof. We enjoyed the cool evening weather for a bit before heading to a terrific Thai restaurant nearby. By 11:00 pm, the long day was finally catching up with me, so I caught the last train home.

Sunday was another soccer game...this time over an hour away by subway. And surprise, surprise, I got zero play time this game...even though we were ahead 3-1 towards the end. (According to my coach a few weeks back, I would only get play time when we were either ahead 3-1 or behind 3-1...how's that for a boost of confidence?!) I am very ready for the season to be over, to say the least...I need a break from my water-girl/cheerleader duties!

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