Japan, Day 6: Travel to Tokyo

Well, after much traveling today, I actually made it here to Tokyo without getting lost! I'm quite proud of myself. My train left Kyoto at 5:30 am, so the plan was to wake up at 4:30 am...right, that did not happen! I slept through my alarm but miraculously awoke at 4:50 am. I hopped in the shower, quickly packed, and literally ran a mile to the station to reach my train just as it was about to leave. I bounced from train to train, a total of 6 transfers in all, before finally reaching Tokyo 10 hours later! It was rough, but train travel is so much better than airplane travel. Plus, I got to see Mt. Fuji, which is nearly an impossible feat considering it often likes to hide behind clouds.

Mt. Fuji from my seat in the train.

I arrived at my hotel around 3:00 pm and met Kelly in the common room. She was chatting it up with a British guy who is on his first leg of an around-the-world trip. We were all famished, so we decided to venture into the Ginza district for a short bout of sightseeing and dinner. The Ginza district is a commercial area reminiscient of New York's Times Square, complete with massive neon billboards, television screens, designer shopping, and of course, people. We walked around for ages trying to find a cheap restaurant...we were quite unlucky. We finally decided to come back to our area in Asakusa .

One of the brightly-lit intersections in Ginza.

We found a restaurant with pictures in the windows and immediately went inside. We each ordered a meal, but all the waiter brought us were two tiny plates of food...we thought it was just a "while you wait" snack, but he never came back. Twenty minutes later, we realized this was all we were going to get, contemplating a "dine and dash" before paying for the meal and leaving. We then walked straight to the closest convenience store, picked out some Japanese delicacies, then came back to the hotel to eat our real dinner.

Gotta take a picture of the Dior Building!

On another note, the tsunami tragedy in Southeast Asia has really affected me emotionally. If I hadn't been so adament about coming to Japan for the winter holiday, there is no doubt in my mind I would have traveled to Thailand or Indonesia. I was actually looking into flights into Bangkok or Phuket, Thailand just before booking my flight to Kyoto. Everyone was telling me to go south since Japan's winters can be quite brutal, in addition to the massive amounts of money that would be spent here. I would gladly blow a million dollars and be naked in a snowstorm before losing my life, which would have been an inevitable outcome of being in Thailand. I've heard that as many as 2,000 foreigners have died in Thailand alone, and I'm sure upon returning to Korea that many of those foreigners were English teachers like myself.

I don't know what our plans are for tomorrow, but I'm sure we'll do some sightseeing around the downtown Tokyo area. We will probably do as the Japanese do and visit a temple tomorrow night to ring in the new year.

Japan, Day 5: Nara

First and foremost, I am proud to say that I am not homeless tonight! Since I was unable to score a seat on tonight's train, I will be leaving for Tokyo bright and early tomorrow at 5:30 am...ouch! Fortunately, there was a cancellation here at the hostel, so I just had to move into another room with two Canadian guys (sorry dad, it's either that or sleep out on the street).


Kofuku-ji Temple and 5-story pagoda.

This morning I woke up to the sound of rain spattering against my window! Boo! It was pouring rain, but I downed a few cups of green tea, bundled up, and set out to the train station, armed with my umbrella, of course. Today's destination: Nara, Japan's first capital city. My Lonely Planet book states that "Whatever you do, try to go to Nara on a fine day, as visiting the sites requires a lot of walking, and it's no fun at all in bad weather." Right. Anyway, I stepped off the train in Nara, and as I was walking outside I realized I had left my umbrella on board. What's wrong with me? So like any good tourist, I went to the convenience store and bought the ever-popular, ever-stylish poncho. I was lookin' good!


Todai-ji's Daibutsu-den (Hall of the Great Buddha) is the largest wooden building in the world.

Nara is a pretty small town with lots of good temples and shrines. Being quite templed-out at this point, however, I just hit the major places. My first temple grounds, Kofuku-ji, was built in 710 and includes quite an impressive 5-story pagoda. The next place I visited was definitely my favorite. Todai-ji is the home of probably the world's largest bronze Buddha. On either side of him are two extremely large Buddhasattvas (that's probably not the right word, but it sounds good). I know I've used this word way too much this week, but it was simply amazing. And for the first time, we were actually allowed to take pictures!


The Great Buddha: To give you an idea of how big this guy is, I could probably fit into one of his nostrils.

After Todai-ji, I walked around a bit, and the weather finally improved a bit. I walked through Nara Park, which is filled with heaps of stinky deer...apparently the Buddhists think they are sacred or something.


One of the Buddhasattvas flanking the massive Buddha at Todai-ji Temple.

I finally hopped back on the train for Kyoto around 4:30 pm, bought some sushi at the market, and back to the hostel I came. I must be in bed soon so that I can get up around 4:30 am...not looking forward to that, but I am excited about getting to Tokyo and meeting up with Kelly. And keep your fingers crossed that it's a fine day so that I can see Mt. Fuji from the train!

Japan, Day 4: Northwestern Kyoto and Arashiyama

Well, another full-blown day of sightseeing, and another one-eye-closed effort at typing. Last night, my body was begging to put it in bed early, but I met another American here at the hostel and we went down to the Gion district for about an hour or so. Upon returning back to the hostel, I ended up staying up until 2:00 am playing card games with some Aussies.

Needless to say, it was tough dragging my poor, aching body out of bed and into the shower. I managed to leave the hostel around 10:00 am before trekking to the Kyoto train station. It was my intention to reserve a spot on tomorrow night's Moonlight Nagara train bound for Tokyo. Unfortunately for me, the train was completely sold out...now I am left without a way to get to Tokyo or accomodations for tomorrow night (the hostel is completely booked, too!). I'll try to work some magic tonight, though.

The incredible Kinkaku-ji, or "Golden Temple".

After hearing the bad news, I took a bus up to the northwest portion of Kyoto. My first stop was Daitoku-Ji. The was another huge temple devoted solely to the school of Zen. I next walked about a mile to one of Japan's most well-known temples: Kinkaku. This is also referred to as the "Golden Temple" since it is covered in gold foil. It sits by a lake, and the reflection is beautiful. After wandering the grounds, I passed an outdoor area where girls in kimonos were serving tea and cake to couples in L-O-V-E seated on top of low tables. Well, I sucked up my singleness and tried the experience alone, and I am glad I did!

My snack of frothy green tea and cake.

From Kinkaku, I walked to Ryoanji...you guessed it, another temple. This was actually quite interesting because Ryoanji is the home to a dry landscape garden. Basically, it's a large garden consisting of gravel with a few stones artistically placed throughout. It sounds boring, but it was actually rather enchanting.

Ryoanji's dry landscape garden.

An ancient fountain at Ryoanji Temple.

From Ryoanji I took a tram-like train to a nearby town called Arashiyama. By this point my legs refused to carry my body and backpack any further, so I rented a bicycle...it was the best $5 I've ever spent! I rode through neighborhoods and farms, stopping at temples and shrines along the way. It was such a peaceful time, riding through bamboo forests and quiet paths, half-expecting a panda bear to jump out in front of me. I completed my bicycle journey around 5:00 pm and took the train back to Kyoto. As I walked back to my hostel, I refused to resist the temptation any longer and entered The Gap. Two pairs of jeans, three shirts, a snazzy gold handbag, and over $100 later, I walked out of that place feeling more content than a Buddhist monk.

Bicycling through Arashiyama's enchanted bamboo forest.

I then had my first meal out in Japan (yes, you heard that right...I brought oatmeal packets, a jar of peanut butter, and bread and have been living off that nutritional and cheap combination for the past three days now). I had rice, some kind of meat, soup, an eggroll, and a weird ball of red bean paste, and I swore it was filet mignon. And at the price of $13, it should have been!

I got back to the hostel at 8:00 pm, took a nice hot bath, put on my jammies, and now I must get to work figuring out what I will do tomorrow. Wish me luck!

Japan, Day 3: Eastern Kyoto

Yours truly at the Kobe Luminaria.

Wow! Where do I begin? Well, let me follow up on last night. I finished my blog, hung around the hostel for a bit, and as I was reading messages on the community bulletin board, I came across an ad about the Luminaria in Kobe. Every year, for a week at the end of the year, Kobe hosts a huge event in the downtown shopping area in honor of the 1995 earthquake. So, at 8:15 pm, I hopped on a train for an hour ride back to Kobe. It was well worth it! There are millions and millions of colored lights on the buildings, in addition to a huge, brightly lit gazebo...words do not do it justice, so I'll post pictures as soon as I can. It was pretty emotional, actually, considering that 6,000 people died and the city was basically flattened by the quake. I got back to the hostel around 11:00 pm, hung out with some of the people in the hostel common room until 2:00 am, then finally fell into bed.

One of the buildings on the Kiyomizu-dera Temple grounds.

This morning I left the hostel around 10:00 am. I walked to the first, and probably my favorite temple of the day, Sanjusangendo. This place was amazing...it was built in 1164 and holds a huge Buddha flanked by 1001 man-sized bronze statues called Kannons. I then trekked up Teapot Lane through residential streets bustling with shops and visitors before reaching Kiyomizu-dera, a huge temple built in 798. From there, I visited Kodaiji Temple, built in 1605 and the Maruyama Park. I then checked out Yasaka Shrine, a place where visitors ring a bell before saying a prayer to Buddha.

The Heian-Jingu Shrine. 


Walking along the "Path of Philosophers".

More walking led me to Chion-in Temple. I then hustled through the Heian Jingu Shrine before following a huge canal to Nanzenji Temple. This temple is located on extensive grounds, complete with a large Zen garden. From Nanzenji, I followed the famous Tetsugaku-no-michi, more commonly referred to as the "Path of Philosophers". This peaceful path runs along a little creek, through rows of cherry trees before reaching Ginkaku-ji. Ginkaku-jiwas absolutely gorgeous, and the grounds were like nothing I had seen all day. Walkways lead you through the gardens, which include massive raked cones of white sand.

Ginkaku-ji, also known as the "Silver Pavillion". 


Meticulously raked sand garden and cones at Ginkaku-Ji Temple.

At this point it was 4:00 pm and after walking around all day, I happily plopped myself onto a bus. I decided to hop off the bus at Gion, the famous geisha district. I walked along the main streets and then found myself winding through narrow side streets, enjoying the beauty of the 17th-century homes. Finally, at sundown, I made my way back to the hostel.

It's only 8:30 pm, and I am so tuckered out that I feel like I can sleep for days! As I'm typing this, I have to keep one eye closed just to clearly see the screen! Tomorrow is going to be another big day of admiring more temples and shrines in Northwestern Kyoto.

If you fancy a "Froat," then Teapot Lane is the place to go.

Japan, Day 2: Himeji

Well, once I got through reaming myself for being so stupid and irresponsible, I picked myself up by the bootstraps and got on the next train bound for Himeji. It was about a 1-hour ride. We went through Kobe, the site of the devastating 1995 earthquake, but I decided to just view it through the train windows rather than have a walk around.


Himeji Castle is also known as "The White Egret." 

Himeji is a small town just west of Osaka and Himeji, and it's the home of the famous Himeji Castle. It was built in 1333 by some prince and it's absolutely enchanting...I was literally breathless when I first saw it. I paid a small entrance fee and walked through the castle grounds before removing my shoes and entering the castle. It was amazing...huge wooden pillars, doors, narrow staircases, and thick walls lined with rows upon rows of gun and spear racks. I was quite surprised that visitors were allowed to climb all the way to the very top turret...unlike historical buildings elsewhere in the world, nothing was roped off. And, of course, the entire castle was surrounded by a moat!


Looking down a long corridor in the princess' wing in Himeji Castle. 

After I'd had my fill of the castle, I got back on the train for Osaka. I still had some unfinished business in Osaka...I wanted to take a picture of the Umeda Sky Building. After that, I made a quick stop at a coffee shop for a latte, and a Japanese man came and sat with me and made my day with half of his chocolate bar. After a few minutes of confusing conversation, I bid adieu and went back to the station. Next stop...Kyoto.


A view of the city from the top turret in Himeji Castle. 

I arrived in Kyoto around 5:30 pm and easily found my hostel. It is K's House Kyoto, and is much, much nicer than my hostel in Osaka. I share a dorm-style room with four other gals. I've only met one of them, a nice Japanese girl from Tokyo and I honestly can't repeat her name if you paid me. It's 6:30 pm now and I'm contemplating what to do tonight. My tired aching body is begging to take a bath and go to bed, but hey, there's plenty of time for sleep when I get home!

Japan, Day 1: Arrival in Osaka

Allright! I made it to Japan, and I love it already! Christmas morning, I was busy packing and making sure I had everything I needed for a week in the Land of the Rising Sun (I hope that's the right saying!). I arrived at the airport with plenty of time before my 6:45 flight. I arrived at Kansai International Airport outside of Osaka around 9:00 pm. I hopped on train and finally made it to my hostel, Sumo Backpacker's, just after 10:00 pm.

My elegant hostel in Osaka.

I threw my bag in a locker, changed clothes, and went for a walk through the Kita district, looking for any signs of other foreigners with which to celebrate Christmas. Just as I was about to give up all hope, a crazy Morroccan hoping to practice English dragged me into a bar. I gave him five minutes of conversation before calling it a night. However, I forgot to pay attention to landmarks, and ended up getting seriously lost in the dark streets of Osaka! I finally gave in and hopped in a taxi, which took me on a 5-minute (and $10) ride back to my hostel. Whew!

I woke up this morning bright and early at 7:30, took a shower, and set out for the train station. It was my plan to head an hour west through Kobe to Himeji for the morning, but first I had to purchase a 5-day rail pass. The railways have a seasonal offer for 5-days unlimited travel on local trains for 11,500 Yen (about $110 US). The regular rail passes for 7 days are over $200, so of course I'm poor, and therefore cheap, so I chose the 5-day pass. I paid my money, walked to the platform, but a bottle of water, and got on the train bound for Himeji around 9:30 am. So far, so good.

The great Umeda Sky Building in downtown Osaka.

Ha! If any of you know me very well, you'll know that nothing in my life goes without a hitch. As I settled in the train, I realized I had no idea where my rail pass was. I looked in my money belt...nothing. I looked in my bag...nothing...pockets, nope...I even thought maybe it went down my pants! Anyway, I had to get off at the next stop, go back to the Osaka station, and retrace my steps. Then I went back to the ticket counter and explained the situation. Rules are rules, they told me...too bad, you have to buy a new pass. So I sat down on the bench, had a good cry, checked my possessions one last time, and dished out another $110 for a new pass.

Let's hope I use my brain the rest of the week!!!

Dec. 20 - Dec. 24: Merry Christmas

Merry Christmas from some of the seven-year-old thugs.

Well, I did it! I don't know how, but I did it! After two months here in Korea, I finally made it to my first holiday! Aaaaahhhh. A whole week off...away from work, kids, the never-ending string of contagious ailments...life is grand!

Once I finally healed my computer, I had to get the internet guy to come and reset my connection. I met him during my afternoon break Tuesday afternoon, thinking it would only take a few minutes. Over an hour later, he was still going strong and I was late for work. I tried communicating to him that I had to go, and he tried communicating what the problem with my computer was...Lost in Translation is an understatement here. Finally, we left, and I asked him to take me to work! It must have been a sight to see, and it amused the Korean teachers at work. Hey, I wasn't going to be late!

Upon arriving home that night, I tested my internet and everything was fine. However, Mr. Internet guy claimed he had some unfinished business. So, Wednesday, he and another guy came back (I think he was too afraid to be alone with the crazy American girl again). Thirty minutes later they left, and now my browser is slower than molasses! Grrrr!

As for the week at school, I was expecting another long one, but amazingly it flew by. The kids were in need of Ritalin, but I was hyper, too, so most of the week was spent making horrible art projects or spinning me around the classrooom in my rolling chair...good times!

Thursday I was finished with work at 1:30 pm, so I came straight home, put on my pajamas, and got onto the computer for some last-minute Japan trip planning. Actually, it was not only last-minute, but also really my first attempt at planning this vacation...I just hope this nice example of procrastination doesn't cause any hiccups on my trip. At any rate, I am not even the least bit stressed about the trip...I'm just going to get there and wander about for eight days and enjoy the fact that I'm not working!

Friday was a fun day at school...making Christmas cards for the parents and watching the Grinch. Then Santa Claus (in the body of a 20-something Australian) visited us from the North Pole, bearing gifts. I got off work at 6:00pm, and like a family-less loser, joined the other family-less losers at the gym. Kelly came over, we went out for a bit, then came home for a late night movie/hot-chocolate fest.

Today is Saturday and it's Christmas...I leave in a few hours for Japan and am very excited but a bit rushed (so I apologize for any grammatical errors today!). I'll try to post throughout the week (adding pictures later), but if not, then next week I suppose I'll be busy blogging!

MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE, AND HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!


And Merry Christmas from the six-year-olds, too!